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Eggplant: More Than the Color Purple</A>

The New York Times, August 25, 1999

Eggplant: More Than the Color Purple
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In This Article
Recipe: Green Chicken Curry
Recipe: Slow-Grilled Eggplants
Recipe: Smoky Eggplant
Recipe: Summer Tian
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By AMANDA HESSER

NEW YORK -- It is said in the Middle East that a woman is not ready to marry
until she knows 1,000 ways to cook eggplant. That may seem an unreasonable
demand to American women, many of whom marry before they know how to cook
anything at all.

But the saying is less about preparing women for marriage than it is about
the amazing versatility of the eggplant. In the eastern Mediterranean,
eggplant is a beloved staple. It replaces meat in stews; it is sliced thin,
grilled and drizzled with fruity olive oil; it is charred, peeled and blended
into a silky, garlicky puree; it is layered with tomatoes, onions and oil,
and baked until it is creamy and caramelized. Eggplants are even cooked in
sugar syrup and eaten as a sweet.

Such potential has not quite been realized in American kitchens. And yet we
now have more varieties than ever. Greenmarkets have introduced us to long,
slender purple eggplants; fat, round white eggplants the size of grapefruit;
plump, yellow wandlike eggplants, and small green globes that look like
uptight tomatoes.

Chefs use all of these regularly -- especially in August and September, when
eggplants are at the height of their season -- but they rarely serve eggplant
on its own. Instead, they prefer to keep it a quiet, pivotal component to
bring harmony to a dish.

At Tabla, white, Asian and purple eggplants are incorporated into a loosely
defined ratatouille that lies between slices of lamb and a black pepper mint
sauce, absorbing some of the lamb juices and softening the acidity of the
sauce. In a green curry at Ubol's Kitchen in Queens, Thai eggplants add a
cooling element to a fiery sauce. Smoky diced eggplants are mounded in the
center of a plate of tuna tartare at Palio. A tangy eggplant puree, flush
with cumin, is laid beneath grilled shrimp at Quilty's.

The eggplant blends fluidly from one cuisine to another because it is so
idiosyncratic. It has a flavor all its own, a texture that can range from
meaty to creamy, and a gentle roundness that is sensual. As useful as it may
be, though, the eggplant, uncooked and fresh from the vine, does much more to
intimidate than to tempt.

Eggplants are also unpredictable. One may be sweet, softening to a luxurious
pulp in the oven. Another may be dry and bitter, with the texture of leather.
That's why this fruit eaten as a vegetable has challenged and charmed cooks
for ages. But the challenge always comes before the charm, which is why many
people shy away from it. It does not offer its riches unconditionally. You
must work for them.

That work does not mean hours in the kitchen. It simply means treating the
eggplant with care, and responding to its quirks.

Paula Wolfert, the author of "Mediterranean Grains and Greens"
(HarperCollins, 1998), has the best advice: "You have to start with a good
eggplant," she said. Like corn, eggplant that is old is sorely disappointing.
Unlike corn, bad eggplant can't really be rescued. It will be bitter, pithy
and, often, inedible.

The many new varieties available, found at farmers' markets or specialty
markets, are usually dependably fresh because they tend to be local. In the
grocery store, it is more of a crap shoot. The eggplants there are often
oversize and old.

Eggplant offers few clues to the buyer. It has almost no scent, and bruises
are often concealed. The best test for freshness is a squeeze. The eggplant
should be firm like a rubber ball. If it gives like foam rubber, its flesh
will be spongy and will soak up more oil in the cooking.

A good eggplant will also feel heavy for its size. Lift a few and you will
see the differences in weight. Once you buy one, use it as soon as possible.
If you leave it in the refrigerator for a few days, it will soften and may
become bitter.

Bitterness, in fact, is the greatest mystery about eggplant. The condition of
the vegetable is the best indicator.

Cooks like to argue over how to remove the bitterness as much as chefs like
to debate whether mayonnaise should be made in a blender or by hand. The most
common method is to salt it to draw out the moisture, and thus the bitter
juices. Simply cut or slice the eggplant as you want it for cooking, and
sprinkle the cut sides with coarse salt, adding about as much salt as you
would use to season it. (Fine salt absorbs too quickly into the eggplant
flesh.)

Then, lay the pieces in a colander or shallow dish and place a heavy object
-- a plate or a saucepan -- on top, to weight them. I usually let them sit
for 30 minutes, less if the pieces are small. While they sit, moisture is
drawn out. After 30 minutes, a small pool of water will have collected at the
bottom of the dish. Sometimes it is brown; these are the bitter juices. Rinse
the eggplant pieces with water, and pat them dry completely with a towel.

An alternative is to brine them. In a bowl, mix water and salt to the
salinity of sea water -- one and a half tablespoons coarse salt to one quart
water -- then add the cut eggplant. Lay a bowl or plate on top to keep it
submerged, and let sit for 30 minutes. Again, rinse the pieces and pat them
dry before cooking.

The salt-water method works best with eggplant to be fried. The brine adds
moisture to the eggplant; when it hits the oil, the water inside steams,
preventing oil from entering the flesh and giving the eggplant a puffy,
softer texture.

Ms. Wolfert, whose books on Mediterranean cooking are filled with eggplant
recipes, has another method. In a Spanish recipe for fried eggplant in
"Mostly Mediterranean" (Penguin, 1996), she calls for salting the eggplant,
then soaking it in milk. The milk works like water, steaming and puffing the
pieces as they fry, but it also gives the flesh a noticeably creamier
consistency, without the taste of milk. It's a great trick, especially if the
eggplant is to be pureed.

Ms. Wolfert has other tricks, too. To balance the bitterness -- even a good
eggplant will have a trace of it -- she often sprinkles on a little sugar
before frying it or sometimes after cooking.

As fussy as this vegetable can be, it does leave the cook some latitude. It
is better overcooked than undercooked. The longer it cooks, the softer and
more succulent it gets.

Frying is perhaps the most common way to cook eggplant, and the trickiest.
There is nothing eggplant does better than soak up oil. High heat is key. A
nonstick skillet helps, too, because less oil is needed. Heat the pan over
high heat, add enough oil to thinly coat the pan, then the eggplant, sauteing
it just until it colors on both sides. The idea is to cook the eggplant
through before it soaks up too much oil. (If you must add more oil, remove
the eggplant, add the oil and let it heat before replacing the eggplant.)

Eggplant fried without any coating soaks up the most oil. Using flour is
better, creating a wall between the oil and flesh. But with a coating, you
risk confounding the flavor of the eggplant. To get an almost imperceptible
layer of flour, make sure the eggplant is dry, then dip it in the flour and
toss the piece of eggplant between your hands, shaking off as much excess as
possible.

Chefs dust eggplant with all sorts of coatings -- cornmeal, Cream of Wheat,
Wondra, you name it. Wondra works especially well; it creates a more solid
layer than, say, cornmeal, and yet does not clump like regular flour.

Eggplant can also be fried in the oven. Jeanne Lemlin, the author of "Simple
Vegetarian Pleasures" (Harper Collins, 1999), spreads slices of eggplant with
a thin layer of mayonnaise and coats them in fine bread crumbs before baking.
The bread crumbs create a kind of shell around the slices and the mayonnaise
provides the perfect amount of fat.

The slices can also be tossed in a flavorful olive oil and coated in bread
crumbs or a mixture of bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese before they
are baked. You get a crispier coating than flour and less oil in the
eggplant, but the purity of the flavor is compromised.

Fried eggplant can be eaten as is, sprinkled with a great olive oil and fresh
herbs, or tossed with pasta. Many classic dishes, like moussaka and gratins,
call for frying slices of eggplant before layering them with the other
components.

I prefer roasting eggplant, halved lengthwise or in slices. You use less oil,
and the oven heat tends to collapse the interior more gently and caramelize
the edges more deeply, underlining the sweetness in eggplant. Some varieties,
when roasted, turn almost pudding-like in texture, one step away from a puree
-- simply scoop out the flesh and season it.

Roast at a high temperature (400 degrees for half-inch-thick slices and
halves) to cook off as much moisture as possible, to concentrate the
eggplant's flavor and texture.

Eggplant can also be charred, much like a pepper. Place the whole eggplant
directly over a gas flame or charcoal grill or under the broiler, turning it
slowly until the skin chars. This softens the flesh and gives it a smoky
flavor. Then, you can peel the eggplant and drain the excess moisture -- and
any bitter juices -- and puree it with anything from olive oil and salt to
yogurt, cumin and coriander, or tahini and garlic.

At Molyvos, tomatoes, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and oregano are stirred
into the charred eggplant, and it is thinned and lightened with seltzer water
and eaten spread on flatbread.

Eggplants come in a vast assortment of varieties beyond the classic purple
teardrop with tight waxy skin, especially with local crops coming in at this
time of year. Many have lyrical names like Lilac Bride, Neon, Ghostbuster and
Bambino that evoke their differences in hue and size.

There are fragrant white eggplants, and pale lavender ones, both with flesh
that softens but still holds together in cooking. There are small Italian
eggplants that need to be cooked much longer than their size would suggest.
There are long, thin Asian eggplants with dense flesh that make a soft,
velvety puree. They also work well in a tian developed by Seen Lippert,
formerly the chef at Across the Street, now closed.

Thai eggplants -- one varietal is called Kermit -- are small and round, the
size of a tangerine, and retain their shape and texture, despite having a
very thin skin. As they roast, they soften slightly but still come out more
like a pickled green tomato, with a wet, almost crunchy texture, and with
lots of seeds that pop in your mouth.

This is a complex family. Once you start cooking with eggplant, recipes
multiply quickly -- though 1,000 may take a few years to accumulate. The more
you work with the varieties, the more difficult it will be to form
generalizations. As Ms. Wolfert said, "It's humbling." You must use your
senses, experiment and give this fruit your full attention. The mysterious,
generous eggplant seems to prefer it that way.

To Each According to Its Texture

When it comes to cooking, all eggplants are not created equal. Some are best
sauteed, others best after slow roasting.

The standard large, heavy, deep purple eggplant is the equivalent of an
all-purpose potato, suitable for just about any recipe.

Fragrant white eggplants have a tight flesh, which becomes tender and buttery
but does not fall apart like a large purple eggplant when sauteed, or even
like a pale lavender one. All three when roasted cook to an almost
pudding-like texture that makes them perfect for purees.

Small Italian eggplants are best cooked longer than other varieties. Long,
thin Asian eggplants are lovely roasted; they make a soft, velvety puree.
Bambinos are also nice for roasting, emerging like a slow-roasted tomato.

Kermit eggplants are small and round, and are best for simmering in stews or
sauces.
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GREEN CHICKEN CURRY

Adapted from "Real Thai" by Nancie McDermott (Chronicle Books, 1992)

Time: 25 minutes

1/2 cup coconut cream
1/4 cup green curry paste (see note)
1 skinless, boneless chicken breast, cut into bite-size pieces
2 skinless, boneless chicken thighs, cut into bite-size pieces
3 cups coconut milk
1 1/2 cups quartered Thai eggplant or purple eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce
1 tablespoon palm sugar or brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
12 fresh kaffir lime leaves, optional
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves
9 long thin strips red bell pepper.

1. In a medium-size heavy saucepan, bring coconut cream to a gentle boil.
Cook until oil begins to glisten on the surface, 6 to 8 minutes. Add curry
paste, and stir to mix well. Continue cooking over medium heat until curry
paste releases a pleasing aroma, 1 to 2 minutes.

2. Add chicken breast and thigh pieces and stir to coat them evenly with
coconut cream mixture. Cook until mixture thickens slightly, about 2 more
minutes. Increase heat to high, and add coconut milk, eggplant, fish sauce,
sugar and salt. Stir well. Stir in 6 of the lime leaves, if using. Adjust
heat to maintain a gentle, active boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until
eggplant is just tender, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Remove chicken curry from heat, and adjust seasonings with more fish
sauce, sugar or curry paste as desired. Transfer to a serving bowl, and
garnish with basil leaves, red pepper and remaining 6 lime leaves. Serve hot
or warm with rice.

Yield: 4 servings.

Note: Available in Asian markets.
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SLOW-GRILLED EGGPLANTS

Adapted from "The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean"
by Paula Wolfert (Harper Collins, 1994)

Time: 30 minutes

4 thick, plump purple-black eggplants (10 to 11 ounces each)
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Pinch of dried Mediterranean oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt
Pinch of sugar
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped parsley.


1. Begin a charcoal fire and allow coals to turn to ash.Have a supply of
coals to keep a steady heat on grill for about half an hour.

2. Wash and dry eggplants, and prick each one once with a toothpick. Place
eggplants far enough from hot white coals so that they will cook slowly and
evenly. Turn eggplants as each side becomes black and soft. Transfer to a
serving dish and peel one side. Allow to cool for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a
small bowl combine the oil, lemon juice, oregano, salt, sugar and pepper.

3. Slip each eggplant into an individual dish so that the peeled side is up.
Use a small knife to make three or four crisscrossing slashes into the
buttery pulp. Whisk the olive oil dressing until it is well combined, and
spoon an equal portion over each eggplant. Gently press the dressing into the
pulp with a fork. Top with the parsley, and serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings.
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SMOKY EGGPLANT

Adapted from Quilty's, New York

Time: 30 minutes

2 medium eggplants
Vegetable oil, for coating
2 tablespoons tahini
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cumin seed
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

1. Rub eggplants with vegetable oil. Place directly on a hot grill or over a
gas flame (this may be done on top of the stove). Char skin well on all
sides, turning eggplant with tongs. Continue until eggplant is blackened and
collapsed, about 20 minutes. (Eggplant may leak a small amount of liquid.)
Transfer to a platter and allow to cool slightly.

2. When eggplants are cool enough to touch, peel them, removing as many seeds
as possible. Place pulp in a fine sieve and drain, pressing it lightly to
remove juices.

3. Transfer pulp to a blender, and add tahini, cumin and lemon juice. Puree,
adding olive oil in a steady stream while blender is running. Season to taste
with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature as a spread or on a plate
under grilled meat or seafood.

Yield: About 1 1/2 cups.
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SUMMER TIAN

Adapted from Seen Lippert

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large Vidalia onion, peeled and thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon white wine
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small bunch fresh basil or oregano
5 Asian eggplants, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds
4 ripe tomatoes, cored and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds
1/2 cup caperberries or large capers
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar.

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a heavy skillet over medium heat, heat 1
tablespoon olive oil and add onion and garlic. Saute until onion is softened,
about 6 minutes. Add wine, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Spread onion mixture evenly in a shallow 8-by-10-inch baking dish, and
scatter with basil or oregano leaves. Place a row of eggplant rounds over
basil along one edge of dish. Place a row of tomatoes halfway overlapping
eggplant, and continue overlapping rows of eggplant and tomatoes until they
are all used. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle caperberries
evenly over vegetables, and press lightly with a spatula to compress mixture.
Drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the vinegar.

3. Cover baking dish with a sheet of parchment paper, and bake for 45
minutes. Remove paper and continue baking until surface is lightly browned,
15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat, and press lightly with a spatula to
distribute juices evenly to top layer of vegetables. Serve hot, room
temperature, or chilled.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
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