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<pre>Quality Standards for Australian Olive Oil
At the recent National Olive Industry Conference 2003 of the Australian Olive
Association (AOA) in Brisbane, a number of speakers presented on the status of
Olive and Olive Oil production in Australia, and on related Australian quality
standards.
I completely concur with the need identified at the Conference to objectively
improve the quality standards of the local product. However, to achieve this,
the producers require clear and comprehensive information on the standards
themselves, and the related test methods to ensure compliance. They also need
reliable information on the dynamics of the market place, the current economic
and productive status of the industry, and any foreseeable issues that may
impact on the Australian industry’s future sustainability and international
marketability.
What is Quality?
Quality is not just a word. It is the result of much striving to lay a solid
foundation for the product and the future market. Quality Assurance Processes
and the Quality of the Product are two very different things.
QA processes in Europe are already seen as obligatory under the relevant laws.
Every olive oil processing plant, in order to operate commercially, must possess
a health certificate authorized by the local health inspector. In 1998
compliance with HACCP standards and the equivalent of Australia’s “Olive Care”
procedures was made obligatory.
These two systems form only a part of the basis for establishing the
certification of the quality of production processes and practices, and health
related safety of the product. They do not address the varying standards of
quality of the product itself.
“High Standard” - the Certification of Extra Virgin Olive Oils of Superior
Quality
The Corporazione dei Mastri Oleari (Olive Oil Masters Guild), which I represent
in Australia and New Zealand, has established that compliance with QA processes
and procedures is not in itself adequate to certify the intrinsic quality of a
product. After years of research and analysis involving experts in this field,
scientists and researches of ISOM (International School of Oil Masters - the
Guild’s School) have created a system of certification known as “High Standard”
(HS). This was introduced to help raise the standard of product to the highest
level, ensuring the best positioning of the product in the international market
place.
The HS system is the first in the oil sector to provide a credible and reliable
certification of superior quality extra virgin olive oil (EVOO). This
certification is based on thorough analysis of every production “batch”, using
new scientific parameters to measure compliance with standards in every phase of
production. The test results are verified by the CSQA- Certificazione di
Qualita’ Agroalimentare - an internationally recognized Italian body that
certifies the quality of products in the food sector.
For example, measurements of “oxidative chain breaking activity” are taken to
precisely quantify the anti-oxidizing capacity of the oil. The product’s
characteristic on this scale of measurement has been proven to be a fundamental
element in determining whether the HS standards have been met.
This innovative method was perfected by Prof. Lanfranco Conte (Professor of Food
Chemistry at the University of Udine, and Chairman of the Technical Board for
Oils and Fats Analytical Methods of the Italian Ministry of Agriculture).
HS provides a well-defined and certified intrinsic quality standard, which is
not prone to subjective or emotive elements. It has taken on the role and the
relevance of a new product category for high quality olive oils.
Through the introduction of these new standards based on more stringent
scientific parameters and test methods, HS offers consumers the utmost certainty
in the recognition of extra virgin olive oil with the requisites of superior
quality.
The objective of the Corporazione dei Mastri Oleari (CMO) is to promote the
culture and consumption of olive oil of the highest quality all over the world.
With this in mind, the CMO has recently decided to open an office in Australia.
We will offer our experience and services to the whole Australian olive oil
industry, with the aim of arriving at a reliable standard certifying high
quality locally produced EVOO. This will help establish product standards that
will provide Australian consumers with confidence in the quality of the product
they are purchasing, and will also help Australia secure a credible position
based on product quality in the international market.
All producers that have adopted this system in the past have, in a very short
time and without much effort, secured themselves in the most sought after
markets such as Europe, UK, Japan, USA, Canada, and United Arab Emirates.
Quality and the Importance of International Standards – Australia’s Position
It is not possible to establish a standard of quality without a sound basis. The
minimum acceptable basis of every standard for food products, whether we like it
or not, is dictated by Codex Alimentarius - being the internationally recognized
“rock” on which to base a solid, strong and lasting construction for food
product standards. However, compliance with the requirements of Codex and the
International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) are only the starting point in
establishing a measurement of the highest quality standards.
I feel there are some issues in the current position of the Australian Olive Oil
Industry presented to Codex which could have significant implications for the
future of the industry.
In his presentation in the Conference Notes on 3 October 2003, entitled, “The
Industry and Future - Authenticity and Obligations”, Mr. Paul Miller mentions
that Australia has had some success with the Codex Commission. However this
appears to contradict what one reads in the official Codex records on this
matter.
The relevant extracts are contained in the following reports:
Codex Committee on Fat and Oils –London 3-7 February2003,
ftp://ftp.fao.org/codex/alinorm03/Al03_17e.pdf
Codex Alimentarius Commission – Rome 30 June - 7 July 2003,
ftp://ftp.fao.org/codex/alinorm03/al03_41e.pdf
A careful reading shows that the outcome was certainly not a “victory”. On the
contrary, it appears to be an “own goal”, and for this reason I would like to
comment on what has happened and what could happen in relation to this.
In London, the Australia/New Zealand delegation requested the raising of the
limits of linolenic acid from 1.0% to1.5%, moving this proposal in consideration
of characteristic composites of oil products due to climatic conditions.
Refer:
ftp://ftp.fao.org/codex/alinorm03/Al03_17e.pdf (from point N:6 to
N:31)
It would be interesting to learn, where, when, and above all how many analyses
were done, and by whom, in order to accurately confirm that the responsibility
for the increased level of linolenic acid in Australian olive oil lies in
climatic conditions . As far as I am aware, the relevant results have not been
submitted to IOOC or Codex, nor appeared in any international scientific
publications. Morocco also found itself in this position at one time and was
able to subsequently identify that the problems were of an agronomic nature, and
not climatic or natural, and it was easy for them to correct the problem.
At the Committee Meeting, Codex noted that:
“…The level of linolenic acid was a very important indicator to control the
authenticity of olive oils and therefore this should be applied strictly to
maintain the authenticity of the olive oils already on the market and to protect
consumers from fraud...”
At this point, with the support of Canada, Malaysia and U.S.A. the Australian
delegation proposed a footnote:
“Maximun level of greater than 1.0% is permitted if the olive oil is
authenticated by other means, for example, the analysis of Sterols.....”
Subsequently, the Australian and New Zealand delegations withdrew the initial
proposal and asked that no reference be made to linolenic acid in the footnote.
Refer :
ftp://ftp.fao.org/codex/alinorm03/al03_41e.pdf (from point N: 81 to
N:85)
I find it difficult to believe that the Australian delegation or at least it’s
scientific representative, did not know that the analysis of sterols was already
regarded as obligatory either by IOOC or ECC and that this analysis does not
resolve the problem with any certainty.
Implications for the Australian Industry
I have worked for many years as an inspector of fraud and Quality Control of
food products protected by the E.U., and I believe that the practices that would
be “legitimized” through the position presented to Codex would open the way for
many commercial problems in the Australian olive oil market – both for local
production and imports.
The Australian position implies that for local production and the domestic
markets in Australia and New Zealand, there would be no recognition of any limit
of linolenic acid in olive oil to help determine the product’s intrinsic
quality. It also means that linolenic acid level could range between 0.1% and
100%, and that even the best olive oil could be regarded as “vegetable oil”.
Practically speaking, this position reduces for Australia the possibility of
identifying the purity of the oil and therefore of identifying any cases of
adulteration of the product.
To the Olive Oil “community” outside Australia - both potential buyers and
competitors - the credibility and consequent international marketability of
Australian EVOO would be compromised.
For example, canola oil has limits of linolenic acid of +/-13% and so it would
be easy, by virtue of the Australia/New Zealand position in Codex, to mix 10g
olive oil with 990g canola oil and sell it as “olive oil”. There would be
neither laws nor standards to forbid it.
I ask myself then, for what reason did the representatives of the Australian
industry adopt this position, which works against the Olive Oil Industry and
seems to favour other vegetable and seed oils businesses.
I also ask what interest did the delegations of Malaysia, Canada, and the USA
have in supporting the Australian proposal, since these countries are not
“significant” producers of olive oil, but rather of Canola, Palm, and other
oilseeds.
In the “Yahoo Olive Oil Group” of 24 September 2003, one reads “...the future of
the Australian Industry depends on the cutting of imports.....”, and a well
known Australian researcher, recently invited as a speaker at a Conference in
Mudgee, contended:
The linolenic acid content of EVOO must be less than 1%
Only 5-10 % of Australian Oil has linolenic acid content greater than 1%
Some imported oils labelled EVOO are not EVOO.
I don’t know if the last point is true or not. However, as a consequence of the
position taken by the Australian delegation at the Codex session, the door has
been opened for the potential of adulteration and fraud in the domestic market,
not only with imported oils but most importantly with other Australian Vegetable
oils.
Certain practices in Australia already seem to be out of step with other
countries that comply more closely with international standards. A product
called “Olive Oil Spread” is available in supermarkets, for which the
ingredients list includes vegetable oils, with olive oil minimum 20%. You will
also find “Extra Virgin Olive Oil Sprays” on sale.
In contrast, for the European market:
It is an offence to label as “olive oil” any product that has been mixed with
other vegetable oils.
It is prohibited to declare a product is “extra virgin” if it has had any
other product added to it: whether chemical or natural. Pressurized sprays
cannot function without propellants.
All food products (including oil) departing from or arriving into the EU,
undergo sampling and checks to ensure that the product corresponds with the
declared nature/quality.
In the publication R&D Plan for the Australian Olive Industry 1998-2002,
Objective 1/ Strategies reads:
“Explore market opportunities for blending olive and other vegetable oils (NOTE:
Blending is not permitted under the terms of the IOOC”
The question that arises in this context is that if the industry acknowledges
that blending is not permitted by IOOC, what is the purpose of exploring
opportunities of developing the blending of olive oil with other vegetable oils,
when there is no demonstrable economic advantage for the Australian olive oil
industry.
There continues to be much talk in Australia of “improbable” terminologies being
used to describe quality products. Labelling standards typically require that
every product be given its correct denomination. European law is very strict in
this regard and punishes anyone who attempts to differentiate a product by using
adjectives on the labelling that do not conform to international standards.
It is already a great achievement to create a high quality olive oil and to be
able to demonstrate this quality to the customer. It is not necessary, and it is
possibly risky, to use, for a product like olive oil, adjectives such as “Ultra
Premium” which have not been approved by any food product standard.
Refer:
http://www.codexalimentarius.net/reports.asp
The Way Forward - Better Standards for Australian Olive Oil Production
I believe that it would be more appropriate and sustainable for Australian olive
cultivation and olive oil production to stay within the limits set down by Codex
for linolenic acid, to continue to do accurate research, and to identify and
rectify possible causes of sub-optimal product quality. At the next meeting of
Codex, in three years time, the Australian industry could propose possible
amendments based on this research. This is how Morocco took action in the past,
and within a short time they had identified that part of the cause of their
problem was linked to irrigation and the cultivar “Picholin”.
I am confident that the great majority of Australian olive oils have linolenic
acid values of less than1.0%. This can be confirmed by analyses that have been
carried out in Italian Research Institutes and Universities recognized by the
IOOC, of many oils that Australian producers have themselves sent for analysis,
as well as research done in Australia.
On numerous occasions I have had discussions with researchers and
representatives of the Australian olive industry, suggesting technical and
operational strategies to protect the integrity of the Australian industry. The
adoption of these strategies would facilitate the development and entry of
genuine Australian EVOO into the domestic market, and would limit the entry into
this market of products of dubious quality, whether imported or produced in
Australia.
Australian olive growers believe in and have invested in this industry. They
must ensure they hold the keys to a secure and sustainable business, which
protect the producer, the consumer and the domestic market. These keys are:
- Ethics
- Transparency
- Quality
- Adequate Laws
Australian olive growers and olive oil processors, particularly the small
producers, must have adequate representation and access to the facts - the
required quality standards and the test methods to meet them, the drivers of
quality, market demand and pricing – to better gauge future prospects and the
sustainability of this business, and so to invest accordingly in the future of
the industry.
Quality is a fundamental part of running the business in the olive grove, in the
oil mill, at the research institutes and universities, with ethics and
transparency, and the understanding and collaboration of everyone involved,
because it is of benefit to all. We produce quality, we declare what that
quality consists of, we offer the customer valid information to back up product
quality, because it will be the customer who judges us and sustains our business
in the long run.
The IOOC has been asked to undertake a global survey on quality standards, the
results of which are likely to influence the outcome of the next Codex
Alimentarius session in 2006. In the meantime we must consider that the
conclusions drawn and decisions made could create serious commercial issues and
potentially damage the reputation of the Australian olive oil industry.
To be best prepared for the next Codex meeting, I believe that we need to
consult a wide range of olive oil experts: chemical, research, anti-fraud etc.,
both local and from overseas, to help provide a sound basis for the Australian
Olive Oil Industry position.
Should you require further information, please feel free to contact me.
Mauro Martelossi
ISOM- International School Of Oil Masters
Corporazione dei Mastri Oleari
-Oil Masters Guild-
(Australia and New Zealand Delegate)
P.O. Box N. 927
Newport NSW 2106
Australia
Tel/Fax 0061 (0)2 9918 0613
Mobile 0061 (0)408 770 500
e-mail:
oliveoil@...
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