The Mediterranean Garden

No 47 January 200. Pages 58 to 60

Growing Olives and Producing Oil

by Brian Chatterton

Review by Caroline Harbouri.

This, the first e-book to be reviewed on these pages, might well be subtitled "Everything you always wanted to know about growing olives but didn't know who to ask". It is an easy to use, rich compendium of information set out in chapters accessible at a mouse-click, with additional more detailed information a simple further click away. It is illustrated throughout with photographs and clear diagrams. When complex data are discussed - on, for example (I'm selecting at random). rainfall or olive cultivars - they are summarized in straightforward tables. Where applicable, recent research is cited.

The rhythm of the olive-growing year is reflected in the titles of the four major chapters, 'Winter', 'Spring', 'Summer', and 'Autumn'. Further chapters are entitled 'Olives in a Small Grove and the Garden', 'Survive and Thrive as a Small Grower', 'Processing', 'The Taste of Olive OIl' and 'Marketing', while 'Contents by Chapters' and 'Index' enable the reader to go directly to the subject on which he or she seeks information.

One of the most daunting questions for the novice olive-grower is that of pruning. "The purpose of pruning is to keep a good balance between the vegetative wood and the fruiting wood", explains Brian Chatterton, adding that in Italy a well pruned olive is held to be one through which a bird can fly... In the 'Winter' chapter he provides a detailed discussion of the various shapes into which olive trees are pruned and their advantages or disadvantages as regards harvesting. Diagrams show exactly how this pruning should be carried out . Information is given on how to recuperate neglected trees or those damaged by frost or fire.

'Spring' addresses another much-debated topic, namely whether or not the olive grove should be cultivated, i.e. tilled. The arguments both for and against this practice are presented in such a manner that the reader may decide for himself whether or not to cultivate; for those wishing to do so, the practical techniques and implements to be used are described in detail. Brian Chatterton himself, however, comes down on the side of no cultivation, discussing the problem of soil erosion and, importantly, the destruction of the soil structure to which cultivation is a major contributing factor. Moreover he points out that leguminous plants (the wild clovers and vetches for example) provide nitrogen for the olive trees and notes - this is a timely comment - "Soils that are excessively cultivated release their organic carbon in the form of carbon dioxide. Restoring organic matter through pasture will return carbon to the soil". He returns to the subject of soil structure in the 'Autumn' chapter when he speaks of autumn rains, remarking "There is only one route to better penetration by rainfall and that is better structured soil".

The 'Spring' chapter also provides a discussion on the use of fertiliser and a clear explanation for the layman of the chemical elements and compounds involved.

Naturally autumn is the season when olives are harvested, so the 'Autumn' chapter includes a detailed discussion on oil percentages and crop yield, as well as the various methods of harvesting olives and on their storage and transport. The 'Processing' chapter adds thorough information on traditional and modern methods of oil processing. For those (mainly inhabitants of non-olive-producing countries) who have a romantic hankering for the traditional ways of doing things, Chatterton remarks with splendid waspishness, "The Italian consumer is more discerning than any in the North of Europe and would not accept an olive oil from a centrifuge if the oil was inferior in quality to that from a traditional press and mats"; for "Italian" here one could just as well substitute "French", Spanish" or "Greek" ....

Misplaced longings for the good old days and the imagined charms of the simple life are indeed tartly reprimanded ("The peasant farmer in a developing country would not accept that there is a 'quality of life' about being poor" ). Yet one of the attractive aspects of the book is Chatterton's awareness of the age-old traditional knowledge of olive cultivation in the Mediterranean countries; on hand-picking, for example, he remarks that "In our modern urban society rural skills such as picking grapes and olives are under-rated as they are acquired through years of experience rather than training." He marshals all the data about the best period for harvesting olives, then adds that the traditional date for beginning picking in his part of Umbria - St. Catherine's Day, November 25th - is supported by the scientific findings. He cites Cato on the use of "vegetative water" (i.e. the bitter juices of the olive discarded when the fruit is pressed) as an insecticide in ancient Roman granaries, painted on the walls and floor and allowed to dry in order to discourage weevils, then notes that its effectiveness is currently the subject of research at an Australian university.

Brian Chatterton naturally draws on his experience of growing olives in Italy; however, the principles and practices he discussed are not place-specific and are thus equally applicable to other Mediterranean olive-growing countries. Moreover, although long resident in Italy, he is Australian by birth. He thus includes information on growing olives in Australia and New Zealand - a refreshing addition which broadens the audience for this book.

Brian Chatterton writes authoritatively and informatively. I highly recommend this e-book to anyone who grows olives.

Caroline Harbouri.