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<pre>Like John Bishop, I, too, would like to change the variety of some 1 and 2
year old trees by grafting new stock onto the existing plants. It's not
because the original plants are not doing well but the supplier of the
plants has revealed that through DNA testing I was not supplied with the
variety requested.
Can anyone advise on the best timing and method to carry out such an
operation.
Questions which come to mind - Is the scion taken from the selected stock
just prior to grafting and are all the leaves removed? Is there a better
chance of success if a multigraft method is used rather than a single cleft
or whip and tongue graft? Is there some stock and scion combination that
makes success difficult?
I would be grateful for any advice from those who have had some experience
with grafting olives or those ' in the know'

Alan Watt

Tanja Olives


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
</pre>
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<pre>Dear Alan,
the olive likes this topworking to be done with bark or rind grafting, although
I've seen good results with other methods such as whip and tongue, cleft, etc.
But I strongly suggest the former especially if the rootstock is much larger
than the scion. By the way, the most important thing is timing. Other grafts
can be done in the winter, bark grafting requires the bark to be separable from
the rest of the stem, therefore as soon as vegetation recovers in the spring
(early April in Central Italy) you can insert one or more scions under the bark
(according to stock size), after cutting it back to desired height. If the tree
has already large branches, you can graft on branches, it will reduce the time
for the new canopy to develop. The choice depends also on how many trees you
have, costs, etc. Of course at that time buds have sprouted, and you should
have the twigs from which you will get the uninodal scions collected a few
weeks earlier, and kept in the fridge in plastic wrapping. Cut the scion to be
inserted a couple of cm above the node, and at the same distance make an
oblique, straight, smooth cut below the node, as long and oblique as possible,
so that the surface in contact will be as much as possible. Don't rip away the
leaves, but cut them to 1/4-1/5 of their length. And be careful with the buds!
Tie and protect the graft and the upper scion cut with cold wax or mastic. I
hope I remembered everything. Good luck and let us know as to the outcome.
Andrea Fabbri
</pre>
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<pre>Andrea

Thanks for your contribution. I am sure that your recommendations will be
widely disseminated down the eastern seaboard of Australia.

Regards
</pre>
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<pre>Alan:

We have been trying to FAX you a package of olive grafting information
without success. The number we have is:61-2-649401159. It seems to want to
go through but then the report that we get following transmission is
negative. Have you been receiving any of it? We can mail this material to
you as well if you wish. Please advise.

Steve Sibbett
U.C. Farm Advisor
Phone - office 559.733.6486
Mobil 559.280.0666
FAX 559.734.2708

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Watt [mailto:wattmeyer@one.net.au]
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 1:12 AM
To: OliveOil@egroups.com
Subject: [OliveOil] Grafting advice


Like John Bishop, I, too, would like to change the variety of some 1 and 2
year old trees by grafting new stock onto the existing plants. It's not
because the original plants are not doing well but the supplier of the
plants has revealed that through DNA testing I was not supplied with the
variety requested.
Can anyone advise on the best timing and method to carry out such an
operation.
Questions which come to mind - Is the scion taken from the selected stock
just prior to grafting and are all the leaves removed? Is there a better
chance of success if a multigraft method is used rather than a single cleft
or whip and tongue graft? Is there some stock and scion combination that
makes success difficult?
I would be grateful for any advice from those who have had some experience
with grafting olives or those ' in the know'

Alan Watt

Tanja Olives


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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</pre>
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<pre>Steve,

Alan's fax number (Tanja Olives) is 61 2 64940159. If you have problems
getting through that corrected number you can try me
on 61 2 64940181.

Regards,

Phil Bramley
Tanja Olives
</pre>
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<pre>Phil:

Apparently the FAX went through to you. Please pass the info. along to Alan.
If I can supply some additional information as a contribution, let me know.

Steve Sibbett
U.C. Farm Advisor
Phone - office 559.733.6486
Mobil 559.280.0666
FAX 559.734.2708

-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Bramley [mailto:bramleyp@one.net.au]
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:26 PM
To: OliveOil@egroups.com
Subject: RE: [OliveOil] Grafting advice



Steve,

Alan's fax number (Tanja Olives) is 61 2 64940159. If you have problems
getting through that corrected number you can try me
on 61 2 64940181.

Regards,

Phil Bramley
Tanja Olives





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</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>Sorry Steve,

Nothing on my fax machine this morning, I must have turned off the machine
by mistake last night. You can contact us on e-mail if it is more
convenient:

Alan Watt wattmeyer@one.net.au
or me bramleyp@one.net.au

Thanks for your assistance.

Regards,

Phil Bramley
</pre>
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