<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>Hello everyone,
My name is Margaret Chidgey and I'm the editor of the Australian Olive
Association's magazine, "The Olive Press".
I've been largely quiet on this list until now, however, I need some help.
I have an article on staking young olive trees that needs some rounding out. I
was wondering whether anyone would like to share their preferences for staking
systems, whether hardwood, bamboo, PVC coated steel or fibreglass. What are the
advantages and disadvantages of each system? Why did you choose the system you
did?
All responses will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks and regards,
Margaret Chidgey


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>>I have an article on staking young olive trees that needs some rounding
out. I was wondering whether anyone would like to share their preferences
for staking systems, whether hardwood, bamboo, PVC coated steel or
fibreglass. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each system? Why
did you choose the system you did?
>All responses will be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks and regards,
>Margaret Chidgey


Margaret,

I found that the most effective technique was to use 3 hardwood tomato
stakes, about 30mm each side, driven into the ground and a plastic treeguard
sheet, around 1 meter high, around the 3 stakes.
This allowed for some movement of the young tree to help its roots develop,
but avoided the tree being blown over in strong wind. It also keeps the
rabbits and hares off the young trees, allows me to spray weedicide without
danger of hitting the leaves of bark, and helps keep the direct sun off the
young trees.

Once the trees have reached about 1.5 meters, I took the plastics off (about
12-18 months) and tied strong cord around the stakes and tree, still using
the 3 stakes. I prune all the lower branches & suckers off and am now able
to spray weedicide closer in to the tree base.

The only down side is that weeds do grow inside the plastics, and have to be
pulled out by hand. I have 400 trees so it is a big but not huge job.
I did try just using the one hardwood stake, but lost a tree blown over in
high wind, so went back to using 3.

Regards,

Mike Wilson.
Hunter Valley, NSW.
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>Margaret,

Just a couple of comments on staking. At Strathalbyn, SA we have a huge
problem with wind and have discovered couple of relevant details through
trial and error.

We discovered very rapidly the bamboo stakes supplied with young plants last
about 2 days here. We moved on to cut our own bamboo stakes from a friends
property which saw us through perhaps 6 - 8months until it was obvious they
would never be able to provide support against our winds. Also they tend to
grow if you accidentally get the polarity wrong - and once growing are not
easy to remove.
Step three was hardwood stakes - 8ft x 1 inch square. These were OK for the
first year or so then as the trees grew and the stakes deteriorated
underground we found if winds came after a scheduled irrigation the
combination of moist earth, wind and tree size would be enough to flatten
the stake which also dragged the attached tree down with it.
We are still persevering with these stakes in one area but the new
planting's this year will be with round eucalyptus stakes, 2.4m long and
pole driven into the ground prior to planting ( much as for vineyard
trellising).
At Marina Colonna's property in Italy they used a plastic octagonal stake
which was lightweight but strong but as yet I have not seen these over here.
The advantages of a round or octagonal type stake is the reduced the damage
to the bark on the stem. Many of our trees have areas quite badly scarred
from rubbing against the edges of the stake in the wind.
We also have had a similar exercise with tying methods and materials. We
have tried tape guns ( not strong enough) velcro strips ( scarred trunks and
still not strong enough) and various bindings. Next section will probably be
tied with spagetti tube. At present I am just hand tying with a doubled
length of vine tape and would like to know of peoples experiences with tying
materials in windy areas.
-----Original Message-----
From: chidgey +ADw-chidgey+AEA-mpx.com.au+AD4-
To: OliveOil+AEA-onelist.com +ADw-OliveOil+AEA-onelist.com+AD4-
Date: Sunday, January 30, 2000 9:33
Subject: +AFs-OliveOil+AF0- Staking


+AD4-From: +ACI-chidgey+ACI- +ADw-chidgey+AEA-mpx.com.au+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-Hello everyone,
+AD4-My name is Margaret Chidgey and I'm the editor of the Australian Olive
Association's magazine, +ACI-The Olive Press+ACI-.
+AD4-I've been largely quiet on this list until now, however, I need some help.
+AD4-I have an article on staking young olive trees that needs some rounding
out. I was wondering whether anyone would like to share their preferences
for staking systems, whether hardwood, bamboo, PVC coated steel or
fibreglass. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each system? Why
did you choose the system you did?
+AD4-All responses will be greatly appreciated.
+AD4-Thanks and regards,
+AD4-Margaret Chidgey
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4AWw-Non-text portions of this message have been removed+AF0-
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4---------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
+AD4-
+AD4-Looking for the lowest refinance rate for your mortgage?
+AD4-GetSmart.com can help. We'll help you find the loan you
+AD4-need - quick, easy, and FREE click
+AD4APA-a href+AD0AIg- http://clickme.onelist.com/ad/GetSmartRefinance
+ACIAPg-Click Here+ADw-/a+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+AD4-
+AD4-VOTE: http://www.onelist.com/surveys/OliveOil
+AD4-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+AD4-INVITE: http://www.onelist.com/invite/OliveOil
+AD4-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+AD4-PROMOTE: +AH4AfgB+AH4AfgB+AH4- Life is healthier with OliveOil
+AH4AfgB+AH4AfgB+AH4-
+AD4-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+AD4-
+AD4-
+AD4-
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>Mike Wilson's description of tying and bagging young olive trees is in
favour with us at Tanja Olives - with the exception of the material used for
tying the trees. We use pantyhose which has elastic qualities and allows the
trunk of the tree to move around without damaging the bark.

We don't actually wear a lot of pantyhose at Tanja Olives but we do get
seconds from Holeproof Hosiery and they may well give you a large box free.

Phil B.
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>Stakes:

I used 1.2 - 1.5m 50mmx50mm ground treated softwood stakes. These
should have a life of 20 years. The only problem to date is that if an
irrigation session is followed by a high wind, and a dripper happens
to have been next to a stake, the wind can impart a distinct lean. On
the other hand, a few taps with a sledge hammer, and that stake will
never move again...

A local consultant (Steven Brailsford) recommends a fibreglass pole.
Strong enough to take the worst of the wind, flexible enough to allow
tree movement and encourage root development - cost is similar to
wooden stakes.

Ties:

Far and away the best tie that I have encountered is a soft black
plastic tube about 3mm in diameter, sold in most orchard supply shops
(sorry, haven't got the label to hand). It is flexible enough to tie
easily and soft enough to expand with the trunk as it expands.

Any other offers?

--
Gareth Renowden, Limestone Hills, New Zealand
Words, olives and truffles
Office ++64 (0)3 355 9552 Home ++64 (0)3 314 9921
Mobile 025 790 070
"The crux of the biscuit is the apostrophe" (FZ)
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>And it would be useful to hear more about no staking at all . Have been
advised by a couple of people, and one olive nursery owner with 20 years
experience in South Australia - not to bother staking in most situations.
This flies in the face of information in standards books on establishing a
grove. We used solid stakes, but we may experiment with no stakes for some
further plantings. Much seems to depend on cultivar used, wind in area,
soil, etc.
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>I get the feeling that many people may consider me to be an heretic on
the issue of staking olive trees.

I do not stake my young trees.

Olive trees, like other plants are equipped with mechanisms that make
them grow up towards the sky. They actually have no choice, it is just
one of the things that they are programmed to do. They also use the
natural buffeting of the wind to help them develop a root system that
will withstand the local wind conditions.

Around here there are a lot of self grown olive trees in the creeks and
along the fence lines and not one of them has driven a stake in
alongside itself, yet they all manage to grow into healthy olive trees.

In the same way the olive trees in the orchard manage quite well to grow
up towards the sky on their own. Some, as a result of the way the graft
is growing when they are planted, start out at a funny angle but that
self corrects with time. Later a bit of pruning will allow me to shape
the trees up into whatever un-natural shape I desire. In the meantime I
have trees that are capable of withstanding our winter gales without any
damage. I think that is a good thing.

On the other hand - if you really want to stake your trees I suggest
that you use spaghetti tie to do it. This is designed especially for the
job. It is strong but also stretches enough to allow the tree some
movement and it is soft enough to not damage the bark. If you have
trouble finding it let me know as I sell it and can send some to you

Kent
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>Kent,

not staking sounds great! I have a few questions.

What age are you talking about when you say "young" ? Tree's from Olives
Aust come with a small bamboo stake, would you leave it attached at
planting and then remove it when it rots out?

I had intended to use a tree wrap (plastic coated paper type) to protect
against animals and make strip spraying easier. Without a stake to hold
the wrap I'm worried that the increased windage area of tree and wrap
will blow the young tree's over easily, or blow the wrap away. Any
thoughts?

Is there a wrap or similar product that perhaps fixes all problems -
holds the tree in a "loose" fashion with no ties, protects the trunk
from animals and sprays, at the same time allowing rain or irrigation
water to escape, all without a stake.

Just think of the labour and material savings.

Has anyone from the group had experience with cardboard wraps, and if
good where to source them.

Howard Long
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>Howard,

We have used a system for protecting young olive trees which seems to be
effective against wind, rabbits and wallabies. It involves placing a grow
bag over the tree and staking at three points. The grow bags seem to enhance
early growth. When the tree is large enough, remove one stake, the grow bag
and tie the trunk to the two remaining stakes with pantyhose. Labour
intensive? Yes, but it is really disappointing to see beautiful young olive
trees chewed by rabbits and broken by wallabies.

Regards,

Phil B
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>Hi Howard

I have a few trees from Olives Aust and I left the little bamboo stakes
on them cos I was too lazy to take them off. They eventually came adrift
all by themselves without appearing to do either any good or any harm.
Most of my trees are grafted and about 2 yo when they go in the ground.
The only thing that we do watch is to make sure that the graft faces the
prevailing wind so that the wind is not trying to tear it off the trunk.

Sorry about the question of guards to assist in spraying. I know what
you mean but I am growing the trees organically and so do not spray and
do not use tree guards. This works well for me and of course I don't
have to pay for sprays. We cope with weeds either by slashing or
cultivation. It is amazing how accurate one can become with a little
practice on a slasher.

Several people have commented to me about damage by hares, kangaroos and
parrots. Although we have all of those we don't seem to get any
appreciable damage from them.

cheers

Kent
</pre>
</td></tr></table>