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<pre>I am completely new to growing olives and have a small grove of 200
trees (3-year old trees)near Gympie in SE Qld. I have not sprayed
them at all and they seem to be reasonably healthy.

Should I start a spraying program. If so can anyone please suggest
when and with what.

Thank you for any help.
</pre>
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<pre>I am completely new to growing olives and have a small grove of 200
trees (3-year old trees)near Gympie in SE Qld. I have not sprayed
them at all and they seem to be reasonably healthy.

Should I start a spraying program. If so can anyone please suggest
when and with what.

Thank you for any help.
</pre>
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<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>I am completely new to growing olives and have a small grove of 200
trees (3-year old trees)near Gympie in SE Qld. I have not sprayed
them at all and they seem to be reasonably healthy.

Should I start a spraying program. If so can anyone please suggest
when and with what.

Thank you for any help.
</pre>
</td></tr></table>

<table border=0 cellpadding=2 cellspacing="0"><tr><td>
<pre>I am completely new to growing olives and have a small grove of 200
trees (3-year old trees)near Gympie in SE Qld. I have not sprayed
them at all and they seem to be reasonably healthy.

Should I start a spraying program. If so can anyone please suggest
when and with what.

Thank you for any help.
</pre>
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<pre>Peter

What do you want to spray for? If there is no need, don't.

Regards
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<pre>> I am completely new to growing olives and have a small grove of 200
> trees (3-year old trees)near Gympie in SE Qld. I have not sprayed
> them at all and they seem to be reasonably healthy.
>
> Should I start a spraying program. If so can anyone please suggest
> when and with what.
>
> Thank you for any help.


Peter,

From my experience of growing in the Hunter Valley:

As the trees start to bear fruit for the first time this year or next, they
seem a lot more prone to attacks from various pests. I found attacks from
Black Scale and its associated sooty mould could be controlled with white
oil, and a drop of Rogor or some other insecticide in the mix probably
helped to knock the scale and ants down quite effectively.
Next problem was with Olive Lace Moth, and the same treatment, spraying 10
days apart but with Malathion did the job.
We also have Boron deficiency, so that can go into the tank mix with some
degree of safety ... I work on the principle of a small amount of the
chemical and several sprays is better than one heavy dose.

I also found a problem with root fungal diseases (a systemic fungicide
applied as a foliar spray was more effective than a soil drench), and with
anthracnose (sp?) which is controlled with a copper spray. I use Copper
Hydroxide in the vineyards, so mixed that in with the white oil, malathion,
boron mix, and it seems to be effective, but a little early to tell for
sure.

I also found having a leaf analysis done was well worth the money, as it
picked up the deficiencies quite clearly and set me on the right track. Soil
samples were less useful.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Mike Wilson.
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<pre>Mike

Thank you for your very helpful message. I will follow your advice.

Cheers

Peter Coombe



--- In OliveOil@egroups.com, "Mike Wilson" <mike.wilson@h...> wrote:
>
> > I am completely new to growing olives and have a small grove of
200
> > trees (3-year old trees)near Gympie in SE Qld. I have not sprayed
> > them at all and they seem to be reasonably healthy.
> >
> > Should I start a spraying program. If so can anyone please
suggest
> > when and with what.
> >
> > Thank you for any help.
>
>
> Peter,
>
> From my experience of growing in the Hunter Valley:
>
> As the trees start to bear fruit for the first time this year or
next, they
> seem a lot more prone to attacks from various pests. I found
attacks from
> Black Scale and its associated sooty mould could be controlled with
white
> oil, and a drop of Rogor or some other insecticide in the mix
probably
> helped to knock the scale and ants down quite effectively.
> Next problem was with Olive Lace Moth, and the same treatment,
spraying 10
> days apart but with Malathion did the job.
> We also have Boron deficiency, so that can go into the tank mix
with some
> degree of safety ... I work on the principle of a small amount of
the
> chemical and several sprays is better than one heavy dose.
>
> I also found a problem with root fungal diseases (a systemic
fungicide
> applied as a foliar spray was more effective than a soil drench),
and with
> anthracnose (sp?) which is controlled with a copper spray. I use
Copper
> Hydroxide in the vineyards, so mixed that in with the white oil,
malathion,
> boron mix, and it seems to be effective, but a little early to tell
for
> sure.
>
> I also found having a leaf analysis done was well worth the money,
as it
> picked up the deficiencies quite clearly and set me on the right
track. Soil
> samples were less useful.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike Wilson.
</pre>
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<pre>> Mike
>
> Thank you for your very helpful message. I will follow your advice.
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Coombe


My pleasure. However the comment somebody else made that why spray if you
don't have to is also very true.

One other thing of note which may be of use: weed control.

If you are expecting a crop next season, make sure you have pruned the lower
branches so they are well clear of the ground, as once you have a crop of
olives the branches are dragged down quite a long way, so make sure you keep
the area under the tree as weed free as you can. I got caught this year with
a wet spell, couldn't get in to clean up under the trees and found a huge
amount of weeds getting in the way and causing a fair bit of problem.

Regards,

Mike.
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<pre>hi,

when the flovers appear in the trees, cottons come. in this case we spray the
trees to fed up.

erhan m.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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