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<pre>Hi Paul and everyone,

As I am not very familiar with the specific diseases of olives, could you
please explain for my benefit the parts of the plant that are afflicted and
the type of organism creating the affliction.

I have found over the years that there are possibly several options
available to you, including the copper sprays ( these have a limited tenure
of being acceptable in organic circles because of the toxic levels that
accumulate in the soil and will be taken off the acceptable input list by
2003).

Regards,
Gerhard Grasser

Secretary, Gippsland Organic Livestock Inc.

AgriSolutions Pty Ltd
PO Box 81
Darnum VIC 3822
Australia


*** GreenTek non-chemical weeding systems
*** Soil fertility specialists - Albrecht & Mikhail principles
*** Independent soil, water & foliage testing
*** Kelp, seaweeds and fish for soil, plants and animals
*** Natural farming advisory service

"A man should farm as if he would live 1,000 years, but live as though he
were to die tomorrow."
</pre>
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<pre>Just a thought - if you are starting to flower I think I read somewhere that
you should hold all spraying (including foliar fish based fertilisers etc)
until AFTER fruit set. We try and give any trees with signs of Peacock Spot
any treatment before buds form.

Also I believe it is probably vital that you should have a leaf test done
about now to see what elements may be missing - don't forget the importance
of Boron which can be applied around the base in granular form or bulk
agricultural borax - I believe lack Boron can be a contributing factor of
Peacoock Spot as well as OTDD -(Olive Tip Dieback Disease).
Good luck
regards
John Bishop
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Wilson" <mike.wilson@hunterlink.net.au>
To: <OliveOil@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [OliveOil] Peacock Spot


>
>
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > We have a substantial infestation of peacock spot in our Corriegiolas -
> does anyone have an organic treatment for this? We are in Braidwood NSW. I
> would be grateful to hear any suggestion or other experiences relating to
> Peacock Spot.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Paul Moran
> >
> > PS Congratulation to Hunter Olive Assoc for running a great conference.
>
> Paul,
>
> The only approved sprays for Peacock Spot or copper sprays, either copper
> hydroxide or copper oxychloride. Both are more preventative than curative,
> so I'm a bit dubious how effective they would be. I'm pretty sure they are
> both approved by the organic people.
>
> I believe Mancozeb is an effective curative, but isn't approved for use on
> olives. Damian Conlan from NSW Dept of Agriculture is well up on this sort
> of stuff.
>
> I have managed to bring Peacock Spot under some sort of control using
copper
> hydroxide (in the Hunter, glad to hear you enjoyed the conference) but it
> did take 3 sprays over a period of months to knock the infection down to
> manageable. Timing is important, and a spray now is vital to inhibit spore
> growth with the spring flush.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike Wilson.
>
>
>
>
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>
>
</pre>
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<pre>Thanks Gerhard, Mike and David for your help.

Gerhard, there is a very explanatory article regarding peacock spot in The Olive
Press winter 2001 edition written by Barbara Hall - SA Research & Development
Institute http://www.australianolives.com.au/TOP/olpress3.htm - unfortunately
she does not offer any solutions. Basically Peacock Spot is a fungal disease of
the leaves caused by the fungus spilocea oleagina. I will try to seek out some
more organic or biodynamic remedies before I try the copper sprays.

Paul Moran



----- Original Message -----
From: Agri Solutions
To: OliveOil@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 03 October, 2001 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: [OliveOil] Peacock Spot


Hi Paul and everyone,

As I am not very familiar with the specific diseases of olives, could you
please explain for my benefit the parts of the plant that are afflicted and
the type of organism creating the affliction.

I have found over the years that there are possibly several options
available to you, including the copper sprays ( these have a limited tenure
of being acceptable in organic circles because of the toxic levels that
accumulate in the soil and will be taken off the acceptable input list by
2003).

Regards,
Gerhard Grasser

Secretary, Gippsland Organic Livestock Inc.

AgriSolutions Pty Ltd
PO Box 81
Darnum VIC 3822
Australia


*** GreenTek non-chemical weeding systems
*** Soil fertility specialists - Albrecht & Mikhail principles
*** Independent soil, water & foliage testing
*** Kelp, seaweeds and fish for soil, plants and animals
*** Natural farming advisory service

"A man should farm as if he would live 1,000 years, but live as though he
were to die tomorrow."


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<pre>Here's a description and control pf Peacock Spot from California. So far,
Copper is OK for organic growers here.

Olive Leaf Spot

Olive leaf spot, peacock spot, and bird's eye spot are names for the disease
caused by the fungus Spilocea oleaginea (Cast.) Hughes. Worldwide, it is
known as olive leaf spot; in California, it usually is referred to as
peacock spot. The disease occurs in all olive-growing regions of the state.
Cultivars vary in susceptibility, but all are subject to infection.
Outbreaks are sporadic, and the disease may take several years to become
serious enough to cause alarm.


Symptoms. Leaves, fruit, and fruit stems may be attacked, but lesions are
observed most often on the upper leaf surfaces. Lesions first appear as
small sooty blotches 1/16 to 1/4 inch (2 to 6 mm) across; these later become
muddy green to black spots (color plate 18.2). Some lesions develop a yellow
halo and remind people of the "eye" spot on a peacock's tail feathers;
hence, the vernacular names peacock spot and bird's eye spot. Many lesions
may occur on a leaf. Most infected leaves fall prematurely, which weakens
and kills small wood and eventually reduces productivity. New infections
are first seen in late winter and early spring; by summer, most affected
leaves have fallen, leaving partially defoliated shoots with healthy leaves
on the tree. The disease is usually most severe in the tree's lower part
and north side. Old lesions become crusty and whitish and seldom produce
many conidia.


Disease cycle. Not all infected leaves fall, and the fungus survives on
those that remain in the tree. These holdover lesions produce very few
conidia during summer, and in fall, the lesion margins expand and a new crop
of conidia is produced. In Spain, young leaves were found to be very
susceptible in spring. Many young leaves infected in spring remained
symptomless until fall when they became the main sources of inoculum through
autumn and winter.
The conidia are picked up and spread by moving water, which is why the lower
parts of trees are most commonly infected. Lateral spread is very limited
and even adjacent trees may exhibit vastly different amounts of disease.
Conidia germinate only in the presence of free moisture, and germination,
infection, and mycelial growth proceed readily over a wide range of
temperatures, 70oF (21oC) being optimal. Most infections take hold during
the coldest part of California winters; temperatures above 86oF (30oC)
restrict germination of the spores. Infections established in winter take
longer to become visible as lesions than do those initiated in spring.
Inoculum buildup appears to play a major role in the severity of olive leaf
spot. It may take several years for this disease to cause economic loss.


Control. Olive leaf spot is controlled by a copper-containing fungicide
applied once in late fall before winter rains begin. A second application
is of questionable value; if used, it must be applied before mid-January.
Later treatments, as recommended for olive knot, offer no protection against
olive leaf spot.

Steve Sibbett
U.C. Farm Advisor Emeritus
Phones:
Office: 559.734.4607
FAX: 559.734.2708
Mobile: 559.280.0666
e-mail: sibbett@lightspeed.net



-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Kailis [mailto:kailis@ca.com.au]
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 12:49 PM
To: OliveOil@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [OliveOil] Peacock Spot


Dear all

The procedure should be

Ç Harvest
Ç Prune
Ç Apply copper sprays

All these are done between late autumn ans Winter, well before the
evolution of flower buds.

Regarding Boron - remember that with any nutrients added to soil to
check soil pH. Nutrients can be present but unavailable to the plant
because of pH or lack of water.

Stan Kailis



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<pre>Dear all

The procedure should be

¥ Harvest
¥ Prune
¥ Apply copper sprays

All these are done between late autumn ans Winter, well before the
evolution of flower buds.

Regarding Boron - remember that with any nutrients added to soil to
check soil pH. Nutrients can be present but unavailable to the plant
because of pH or lack of water.

Stan Kailis
</pre>
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<pre>Fungal diseases can affect

¥ Roots - phytophthera, verticillium
¥ Leaves - peacock spot, sooty mould with scale
¥ Fruit - anthracnose and sooty mould

Copper sprays have been a good standby. However if organic growing is to
restruct this because of soil problems then precautions must be taken.

¥ Plant olives in dry areas
¥ Use resistant varieties
¥ Prune out and destroy affected parts
¥ Use alternative sprays that are acceptable eg white oil
¥ Grow companion crops to attract predators
¥ Use drippers rather than sprays
¥ Make sure that branches are not in contact with the ground
¥ Apply copper sprays more judiciously ensuring only contact wit leaves

Ihope this helps

Stan kailis
</pre>
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<pre>Stan,

What companion crops are good to grow with olives?

Trudy Hollinshead
----- Original Message -----
From: Stan Kailis <kailis@ca.com.au>
To: <OliveOil@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: [OliveOil] Peacock Spot


Fungal diseases can affect

? Roots - phytophthera, verticillium
? Leaves - peacock spot, sooty mould with scale
? Fruit - anthracnose and sooty mould

Copper sprays have been a good standby. However if organic growing is to
restruct this because of soil problems then precautions must be taken.

? Plant olives in dry areas
? Use resistant varieties
? Prune out and destroy affected parts
? Use alternative sprays that are acceptable eg white oil
? Grow companion crops to attract predators
? Use drippers rather than sprays
? Make sure that branches are not in contact with the ground
? Apply copper sprays more judiciously ensuring only contact wit leaves

Ihope this helps

Stan kailis


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<pre>Dear All

Two years ago I had the pleasure to visit an olive grove in the hills
(or were they mountains) above Pesara - a coastal town on the east coast
of Italy. The owner Giorgio met me at his shop in the mountain village
where he had his organic shop
¥ Table olives
¥ Olive oil
¥ Wine
¥ Mustards and olive paste
¥ Salamis and pork sausages

etc.

now the point of the story - we both jumped in his small Can vas roofed
Citreon Car (French version of the Volskwagen) - no 4 wheel drive of
course - but light weight and big wheels - up the hills we went to see
the organic olive grove. Trees were in excellent condition no fungal
diseases or olive knot. A striking feature of the grove was thgat
although the trees were in rows - the inter rows were planted woth
legumes, lavendar and rosemary. Useful birds and insects were in abound.

The question put to me was what companion crops to grow with olives? The
legumes provide nitrogen to the trees. The other aromatic species - are
themselves well protected from disease because of their innate chemicals
- and flowering attracts beneficial insects and birds. Rosemary and
lavendar can also be harvested for commercial purposes - although
creative marketing is required.

Stan Kailis
</pre>
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